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Adventures in Travel

Summer Travel Planning Tips for 2023

1/13/2023

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Avoiding the Herd

Summertime is here, and that means there are going to be plenty of travelers. With the opening up of China, international travelers are about to go on "Vacation Revenge," a phenomenon the U.S. experienced in mid-2020 and throughout 2021. The floodgates are about to open. Are you ready?
While this is good for my business, it could make traveling a little more tricky, crowded, and expensive. Over the years, I've learned how to circumnavigate these pitfalls, and I'd like to share these secrets with you. Apply these tips, and you'll save money while getting the most out of your vacation.

Travel During the Shoulder Season

Shoulder Season is in the spring to early summer and late summer into the fall. Why would this be the best time to travel?
  • Less crowded
  • School is in session
  • Prices are lower
  • Temperatures are milder
  • Vendors like me are eager to make reservations
I almost always travel during the shoulder season. If you don't want to wait in line or struggle to get the perfect picture, this is the time to travel. A big bonus of traveling during the shoulder season is the natural beauty. In the spring, flowers are out, waterfalls flow, and newborn wildlife is out to play. 
In the Fall, leaf peepers come out. Gorgeous colors abound on deciduous trees. Animals are preparing for winter, and a nice cool breeze is in the air. Autumn is one of my favorite photography times. 

Prices are Much Lower

You can try to avoid making reservations with an Online Travel Agency. You might think you're getting the best price, but that's not always true. OTA's take a commission from the supplier, which means hotels, tour operators, and guides pay a commission to list on their website. 
Calling the supplier directly can save you money and grief. First, they are thrilled you called direct. It means you'll be able to tell them the price you see online and ask if they can beat it. Chances are they can and will. Talk to a manager if possible. 
Fewer people means travel providers need to fill their calendars. Generally speaking, prices are naturally lower during this time of year, and they'll be able to bargain. For instance, we offer 10% off all direct bookings in the springtime because we are delighted to see you! 

Service is Better

Have you traveled during the summer and stopped to get something to eat, only to find a 45-minute wait? In this day and age, employers are scrambling to hire employees and almost always never have enough. Worse yet, the service is slow, often incorrect, and it takes a lot of time to refill a drink. I'd rather walk in, sit down, and be attended to right away, wouldn't you? - Please be nice, it's not their fault. 
Shoulder season is when everyone is getting ready. Cheerfulness is in the air, and workers haven't been burned out. Attitudes seem to be nicer and people will often go out of their way for you during this time. 

Start Planning Ahead

If you prefer to avoid crowds, pay less, and enjoy your vacation, you can start planning now. We are receptive! Here in South Dakota, we have wide open spaces and an abundance of wildlife. If Mount Rushmore, Custer State Park, and the Badlands are on your bucket list, check out our tours. Use the code BLACKHILLS10 for your 10% discount!

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Inflation and the Secrets to Saving Money on Travel

6/28/2022

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Inflation and the Secrets to Saving Money on Travel

Huge male Bison in Custer State Park

Inflation and the Secrets to Saving Money on Travel

I want to talk about inflation. Everything is going up in price, which has some people changing their travel plans and others making the tough choice to cancel. Here's some advice to help keep your plans to travel and reduce the cost simultaneously. 

Let's bargain. Ok, so you have the hotel, car, and tours priced out. You need to take a second look, and here we go. This is an easy way to cut expenses by at least 10% and maybe more. First, check out those rates for your hotel online. If booked through an online travel agency, look again. All the major search engines for online hotel bookings are updating their prices daily, and the price you paid 4 weeks ago may have dropped. Most OTA's will allow you to book at the lower price, cha-ching!

If the price hasn't changed, call the hotel directly, they'll appreciate it. The purpose of your call is to inform them you're looking at the price online and want to know if the hotel can offer a better rate. Why would you do this? The OTA receives a commission for your booking, and the hotel would rather have you book directly. The hotel can make more money, and you can pay less. Trust me, this works. 

If you get no as an answer, ask to speak with a manager. No usually means that the person on the other line doesn't have the skill, authority, or comprehension to do what is being asked. Keep moving up the ladder. It'll be worth the time. If you still get a no, ask for more. Maybe breakfast can be added to the reservation at no additional cost. It might not be brunch at the Ritz, but it'll save you a bundle. The less you eat out, the more you save. Food cost is a huge travel expense, and there's no shame in being thrifty. 

Now, let's take a look at the rental car. Frankly, consider ditching it. Renting a car right now is highway robbery. You don't really need the car, and here's why. Think about it, why are you getting the car? Most likely for a sense of freedom and to get you to the airport and back. Most airports have shuttles that can offer a clean, comfortable and inexpensive transfer. Again, search online for the transfer company and book direct, not through a third party. 

Secondly, Uber and Lyft are just about everywhere and still reasonable. Think about using them strategically. Double up on the purpose of your shared ride. Can I get lunch and see some of the sights on my itinerary at the same time? What is within walking distance? Contact the local tourism association and forget about "The Top Ten Things To Do In.....". Whenever you see that phrase, it's either a blog of someone who wants you to click or an online travel agency wanting to sell you a tour. Forget it. 

My local tourism association is Black Hills and Badlands. It's a wealth of information, and you can talk to a human being. They work much harder and know more than a blogger or tour site. These people are paid to get you to visit the area and will help you with whatever you need. 

Ok, so last but not least. I am a tour operator, and I will tell you the truth. Online travel associations are a double-edged sword for companies like mine. We list our tours on their website because they are excellent at helping us get in front of your eyes. Our ratings do help with decision-making, but so do our commissions. 

Tour operators will pay anywhere from 20% and up to get the sale. Sometimes, online travel agencies collect 30% because the tour operator will increase the commission to get ahead of the competition! That's a huge chunk, and it's a race to the bottom right now. However, we want you to make a reservation and are willing to pay. Look closer at the information online when selecting, and you'll likely find the tour provider's name within a few clicks. It won't be on the first page, but look for something like "Additional Information" and click there. 

Once you see the company that has what you want, search for them online and call directly. Simply explain that you want a tour, found them online and would like to know if they offer a discount for making a direct booking. Without question, I offer an immediate 10% discount, possibly more if you book more than one tour. 

You're saving money, and I'm making more. It's a win-win situation that no company is going to pass up. Now, think about it. Book a tour that picks you up from your accommodation, takes you everywhere you want, and includes a meal. You've just scheduled an 8-hour tour with no planning on your part involved and no requirement for a car.  

Prices are sky-high for rentals, and this strategy can save you anywhere from $800-$1500 for the week. In some places, even more. So try this strategy, and you'll save thousands while helping local businesses like mine. It's easier than you think, and you'll be able to enjoy the vacation you've been planning for a long time. 

Daniel Milks

Former Director of Sales, Product Development and Principle Buyer. Current owner of My XO Adventures and thrill seeker.

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Spring into Summer in He Sapa

6/11/2022

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Spring into Summer in He Sapa

The center of the Black Hills are 1.7 billion years old, rising from the plains in the shape of a heart. Each day brings a different and beautiful perspective. The ominous storm brews In the background as a warning to onlookers. The Hills go unfazed as they've borne witness to millions of storms. Rain, wind, hail, snow, and grit pelts the granite as it stubbornly resists and stands tall.

Dominant species of trees have come and gone like the mighty lodgepole and limber pine, only to give way to the Black Hills Spruce and Ponderosa. Little pockets of those relic forests remain protected as remnants of a time long ago.Figures can be seen in the rock much like clouds. Faces, animals, and the occasional phallic spires bring giggles to observers. Mountain lions, mountain goats, bighorn sheep, deer, elk, chipmunks, and many more animals call this place home.

This time of year spring acts as a referee between winter and summer, struggling to make the transition. Winter is giving way, but not without a fight. Heavy spring rains combined with sunlight whisper to the roots of grasses, forbes, and wildflowers. It's time, it's time to wake up. It's time to grow once again and stretch towards the vast open sky and brighten the landscape with emerald green, purples, yellows, and orange.

Summer has taken root and winter loosens its grip, knowing It cannot and should not hold on any longer. It's only a pause after all. The animals play, celebrating new life and a new world. The water echoes In the canyons. Shadows and light dot the landscape with patterns that move with the wind. Rocks settle in new places from the life-giving rains, exposing their undersides for the first time since rising from Inside the earth. This is the Heart of All Things. It is the Paha Sapa.
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Daniel Milks

Needle Threader, Adventure Seeker, Creator of Travel, Answerer of Phones and occasional writer. 

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The Black Hills Change of Seasons

5/22/2022

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Mountain Garland, Elegant Fairyfan

The Black Hills Change of Seasons

​Yesterday, I began to see things in a new way. It was a break from work and an unusual opening. Time to catch up, I thought. A text came through inviting me to  Sol Yoga again, and this time I said yes. Why not? It marked a line in the sand from work to self; it's a good thing I did. When you love what you do, that can get blurry. 

It's the first year since 1991 I've been a part of the entire seasonal change. I forgot or never really noticed the effect it has on people. When someone often reaches back to the longing for the change of seasons, you hear a description of color, life, death, cold, beauty, smells, and sounds. All wonderful, but something is missing that neither they, nor I could put my finger on. 

Yesterday that changed. I could see it. Evident as a stand of bright yellow aspens or the daffodils of spring. It was us. The change that occurs in us with the change of season. As if we are just observers was the old way of thinking, but I see it now as a participant. 

Quite a few people I've met in my new home of Rapid City occurred in the winter months. It is beautiful here with wide-open spaces and sunny days in cold weather, but winter is a time of hibernation. Biological beings in the Black Hills slow and prepare for the necessity of a seasonal reset. So do we. It is a time of inwardness and reflection. 

As springtime works tirelessly to connect winter and summer, we have moments of confusion. The tulips come out of the ground one day to be covered by snow another. Yet, spring continues putting winter to rest and awakening summer. What a job!

The Black Hills and Badlands remain beautiful all year and directly impact everyday life in Southwestern South Dakota. As if we are separate from nature, one might rejoice in the emerald green color of the fresh buffalo grass or the return of the wildflowers with the Pasque leading the way, yet be unaware of the changes within. 

I've forgotten the effect on us, on me. Spring seems to provide and encourage new growth. Inside our bodies and minds, nature is calling for a deeper connection. Friendships seem to come naturally and with smiles. It is the fertile soul that awaits the seed. Not looking at the summer, but ever-present at the moment, awaiting limitless potential. What I put there will grow. The spirit is the most fertile ground of all. So this year, I've planted friendships and big ideas. They're beginning to sprout, and those I come in contact with are in a receptive mood. 

Daniel Milks

Owner of My XO Adventures, explorer, human and occasional writer.

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A History of Belle Fourche South Dakota

3/13/2022

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Vegetables grown at AJ Farms in Belle Forche South Dakota
Newborn Baby Goat and Farm Fresh Eggs at AJ Farms in Belle Fourche South Dakota

The Establishment of Belle Fourche

blackhillsminingmuseum.com/learn/historyLike many places in the Midwest, French Heritage seems to stand out. The name Belle Fourche was given to this area by early French fur traders. The name Belle Fourche means "Beautiful Fork", which makes sense as the Hay Creek, Redwater, and Belle Fourche River converge. Fur traders used this area as a meeting point long before the homesteaders of the late 1800's arrived. At the time, beavers were plentiful and an extraordinarily valuable source of revenue for the early colonies. 

Although an important meeting place, the town of Belle Fourche came much later with the arrival of the railroad. In 1876 the Gold Rush of the Black Hills attracted miners, and those who mined the miners. Seth Bullock and Sol Star set out from Helena, Montana to open up a hardware store in Deadwood, South Dakota on the site of the Bullock Hotel. 

Seth Bullock bought property nearby in Belle Fourche. At the same time the Gold Rush was booming, farmers were attracted to the fertile valleys just north of the Black Hills. While settlers were speculating on gold claims, farmers were speculating at the inevitable arrival of the railroad. Land was purchases all over the valley in the hopes of getting rich off the railroad. 

The biggest contender for a railroad depot was the town of Minnesela, the county seat of Butte County. Once word of the railroad's arrival was imminent the inhabitants of Minnesela proposed to sell the land needed by the railroad at astronomical prices. In a wise business move, Bullock offered to build the depot and provide right of way access free of charge. Star telegraphed the railroad to inform them that he would not approve any deal unless the rail was brought into Deadwood as well. 

The Freemont, Elkhorn and Missouri valley railroad accepted the offer and the town of Belle Fourche was on its way. Residents of neighboring Minnesela were furious, but eventually they accepted their fate. Belle Fourche became the new county seat, while Minnesela became a ghost town. 

In 1890, the first carload of cattle departed Belle Fourche heading to the packing plants of the East Coast. Within 5 years Belle Fourche was shipping 2500 cattle cars a month. For a time, Belle Fourche was the largest livestock shipping point in the world. The area had gone from a fur traders meeting point to one of the most important livestock and agricultural centers of the United States. 

The sheep industry quietly grew alongside and eventually was shipping millions of pounds of wool out of Belle Fourche. Sheep dynasties were born out of this unsuspecting town, with the largest consumer being the U.S Army. Other industries of significance are bentonite mining and now, ramen noodles.

As a result of the robust cattle industry, Belle Fourche is considered the first town in the Black HIlls to establish an event appealing to tourists.  The Black Hills Roundup began in 1918 not only to attract tourists, but to raise money for World War I. The first year attendance was 15,000 in a town of 1400. Clearly a success the Buffalo Roundup became a yearly event, an is still in operation today.  

Farming in Belle Fourche

agritourism at AJ Farms in Belle Fourche South Dakota
While some industries came and went, farming had its roots firmly planted in Belle Fourche. None other than Seth Bullock introduced alfalfa farming to South Dakota in 1881. Alfalfa still flourishes in South Dakota and remains one of the top ten agriculture industries along with corn, soybeans, wheat and sunflowers. In Belle Fourche, much of this was made possible with the construction of the Orman Dam.

Completed in 1911, the Orman Dam A.K.A Belle Fourche Dam was the largest rolled earthen dam in the world. It's purpose was to provide irrigation to the farmers and later served as a recreational place for visitors and residents. Irrigation of the Northern Black Hills allowed for a more productive farming industry, attracting novices like lawyers and doctors to the area.

A notable claim to fame for Belle Fourche is being the geographical center of the United States. One might not think of South Dakota being anywhere near the center of the U.S., but in 1959 it became so. The addition of Alaska and Hawaii shifted the geographical center to Belle Fourche. A monument has been erected and visitors can stand in the center for a great photo opportunity. 

Belle Fourche provides visitors quite a few reasons to visit and is located off of I-90 at exit 10 in South Dakota. The Tri-State Museum is a great place to start. Exploring the Northern Black Hills is an incredible experience. It's beaty and culture are like no other. Tour operators such as My XO Adventures can provide an in-depth private guided tour of the area. Safe Travels!

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Daniel Milks is the owner of My XO Adventures

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1880 Train of South Dakota

2/27/2022

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1880 Train of South Dakota

1880 Train of South Dakota

Beneath the earth's surface, raw iron ore is extracted, taken from its place of origin, and thrown into a blast furnace. Melted down and purified, then forged into hundreds of pieces, each with its purpose. 

Thousands of parts are bolted, welded, polished, greased, and oiled. Rather than in the fire, it now contains it. The addition of water produces the necessary pressure that presses on a cylinder and turns the wheels. The most transformative machine of the industrial revolution was the steam engine, resulting in the beloved and iconic steam locomotive. 

Once abundant and heard throughout the country,,,
 steam locomotives fell out of favor for the more efficient diesel and electric engines. As a result, it's not common to find these beauties, but they exist. One such place is between Keystone and Hill City in the Black Hills of South Dakota. 

Robert and Joanna Warder bought the Black Hills Central Railroad in 1990 and restored locomotives No. 7 and  No. 104. Since then, locals and visitors have enjoyed the ride between the mining towns of Keystone and Hill City. Operating and maintaining the line is a big job, but the Black Hills Central Railroad employees seem up to the task. 

I had a chance to visit on a sunny winter day and met up with the Business Operations Manager, Nate Anderson. The action happens at the Hill City Depot during the winter, located at 222 Railroad Avenue. 

Here you'll find the gift shop, located in a part of the original depot. Inside, you can buy tickets and purchase memorabilia. After Nate shows me around, we walked down the line to the yard. 

We hop up on the passenger trains along the way, each containing the original hardware and restored to prime condition. The enclosed passenger car has large windows and glass panels engraved with the 1880 train logo and comfortable seats able to be reversed according to the direction.  

The rest are open-air and preferable to me on a warm summer afternoon. The closer we get to the building, the more I notice the familiar smell of creosote used to preserve the wood railroad ties. Now the door opens. I can feel the warm air mixed with the smell of grease and metal. 

Memories of my hometown of Erie, PA, run through my mind. General Electric manufactured locomotives there, and my family worked in a few industrial companies. So I know this smell, and it's oddly comforting.  

Inside the building, restoration and maintenance take place. A complete rebuild is underway on one of the engines, with the other patiently waiting—a few workers inside sport the overalls and hog head hats (railroad engineer hats).

I always wondered what the inside of a steam locomotive looked like, and Nate was happy to explain. It was fascinating. There's so much that goes into the care of these mighty beasts. We're lucky to have several pieces of locomotive history right here at home. 

Just outside facing the road is the oldest, No. 7. It's a fully working 1919 Baldwin locomotive and has starred in movies such as "Orphan Train," "Into the West," and "Gunsmoke." 

The 1880 Train actually started in 1957, on the original line operated by the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy Railroad. It serviced gold mines between Keystone and Hill City, South Dakota, hauling cargo and passengers from 1879. It's the oldest continuously operating tourist train in the United States.

The Black Hills Central Railroad now carries thousands of passengers on a round-trip ride from Keystone to Hills City. The 1880 Train website displays the schedule, pricing, and frequently asked questions online. In addition, several events occur throughout the year, such as Old West Shootouts, Wine Express, Oktoberfest, and the Holiday Express.

The 1880 Train is one of many reasons to visit the Black Hills and Badlands of South Dakota. My XO Adventures can now cap off your Southern or Northern Black Hills tour with an evening train ride from Hills City to Keystone. 

Toot toot!
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Daniel Milks - Explorer, Traveler and Occasional Writer

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How to See the Black Hills and Badlands

2/18/2022

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How to See the Black Hills and Badlands

How to see The Black Hills and BadlandsSo you've decided to come to the Black Hills of South Dakota and check Mount Rushmore off your list! Now, what do you do? First things first. Where are you going to stay? There are a lot of options, but where you stay is going to affect how you do things on a daily basis.
The main places of lodging when visiting the Black Hills and Badlands are Rapid City, Keystone, Hill City, and Custer State Park. Staying in and around Rapid City is the easiest logistically, but may not be the best if you're looking for a quiet getaway surrounded by nature.
I have a few recommendations for lodging in the Black Hills that you might find useful! Next up Is what to do? I know, you've got the checklist:
1.) Mount Rushmore
2.) The Buffalo
3.) Crazy Horse
4.) Deadwood
How will you be able to do it all? Well, first you need to stay for at least 3 days in the Black Hills. That's the least amount of time. Second, in order to see as much as possible, you'll need to hire one of the many Rapid City Tour Companies, and hopefully, they know what they're doing.Black Hills and Badlands Tours
Tour the Northern and Southern Black Hills with a visit to the Badlands National Park. Go ahead, take a look at a map of the Black Hills and tell me what you think. Looks like Spaghetti right? The worst thing you could do is try to navigate all these roads yourself. I recommend you keep your concentration on the sight and sounds of the Black Hills and Badlands as you make your way through.
If possible, take a private tour of the Black Hills and Badlands. If you choose any of the bus tours, you'll have a good time but be limited in what you can see. The big busses can't fit down the roads you want to see, like Wildlife Loop Road, or the many places along Spearfish Canyon Scenic Byway.
Taking the side roads and exploring where others can't is the way to go. Speaking of Spearfish Canyon (my favorite), you can see and feel amazing surprises like Bridal Veil Falls, Roughlock Falls, and Spearfish Creek Falls.
All along the canyon wall, there are caves and formations millions of years old. Cheyenne Crossing has the best Indian Fry Bread I've ever experienced. If you've had better, email me! A great place to stay in the Northern Hills is Spearfish Canyon Lodge. It's so special out this direction, but I digress.
Still, want to know how to do the Black Hills in 3 days? Ok, well here it is. We already went over getting a private tour company. Once you've read the reviews on Google and you're happy go ahead and make the call or book online.
You're visiting National Parks so let's make the most of it. Once you've got your Black Hills Tour Company, you need to divide your time between 3 things:
1.) The Southern Black Hills
2.) The Northern Black Hills
3.) Badlands National Park.
You still don't know what you're doing, but hopefully, your Black Hills and Badlands Tour Company does.
Ok, so the Southern Black Hills. This is where you'll see Mt. Rushmore. Yes, it's amazing. As your guide questions and make sure to get a picture of the plaque that lists all the workers. None of them died on the project, and my favorite worker is "Big Dick". See if you can spot him.
Spend about an hour here. Go sit down in the amphitheater and look up at the monument rather than fighting for space with all the people up top. The visitors center is worth a look too. Ok, let's get out of here.
The next places to go are Iron Mountain Road, Custer State Park, the Needles Highway, and Crazy Horse Memorial. This is a full-day excursion. You can expect to be picked up around 8 AM and dropped off at around 4 PM. If the tour company is any good, they'll feed you lunch, have bottled water and snacks in the vehicle.
The Mount Rushmore and Southern Black Hills tour is the most popular. This is an amazing day, and if you didn't see a buffalo, you didn't have a good guide. If you saw a mountain goat, consider yourself lucky!
Next is the Northern Black Hills tour, or Spearfish Canyon Tour. This is the most peaceful and my favorite. Yes, yes, there's Deadwood and bang bang Calamity Jane, Wild Bill, and all the others. Maybe go see Deadwood first and watch a Wild West Shootout in the middle of the road.Northern Black Hills Adventure
If you brought the critters from home, they'll love it. Ice cream, trinkets, and shirts. Have your guide tell you about the hauntings, killings, thievery, gold, and tall tales before you skedaddle out of there.
Near Deadwood is the little town of Spearfish. There's the D.C. Booth Fish Hatchery here that your guide will visit. Next drive down the canyon, stop at all the waterfalls and then finish it off with Pathways Spiritual Sanctuary.
Read the "Turkey Shack" before you arrive and it'll all make sense. This is another full day of incredible views.
Last on the list but not least is Badlands National Park, a full-day tour. Tours of Badlands National Park vary, but it's not complete unless the guide visits both the Southern and Northern Unit of the Park. Before you even arrive there look out the windows to see the rolling hills of the plains and think Dances With Wolves.Badlands, Delta-9 Missile Museum and Wall Drug
Alien-like landscapes of erosion are vast in the Badlands. Multiple views are breathtaking. The Badlands has a wonderful road to travel through while you enjoy the landscape.
What's in all that dirt? A lot! Fossils, geodes, agates, and the history of the world. You're traveling through what used to be an ocean many times over. You're also making your way through the missing 7 thousand feet of the Black Hills. It washed all the way down into the Badlands.
Red, green, grey, yellow, and purple are just a few of the colors you'll enjoy as well as wildlife such as the Bison, Big-Horn Sheep, and Prairie Dogs. You can even experience this day on one of the bike tours offered in the park. Why go to the South Unit of the Badlands after all this?
Well, it's located right next to Pine Ridge Reservation, and some of the most important histories of the area took place here. The Southern Unit or Stronghold Unit of the Park is co-managed by the NPS and the Oglala Lakota. Stronghold Table is believed to be the last place the Ghost Dances were performed.
Both Sheeps Mountain Table and the Stronghold table are Holy places to the Lakota to this day. While visiting the park or anywhere in the Black Hills remember that this is Lakota Territory. There you have it. Three days of glorious sights, sounds, and memories.

Daniel Milks

Owner of My XO Adventures, explorer, daredevil and occasional writer. 

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12 Reasons You Should Avoid South Dakota

2/12/2022

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12 Reasons You Should Avoid South Dakota

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The Wide Open Spaces of South Dakota

 
There are plenty of reasons you should avoid South Dakota. As a resident of the state, I’d like you to take this list seriously, and prepare should you still make plans to visit.

  • There’s only 10.7 people per square mile making it the 46th most populous state, and you don’t want to meet that 7/10 of a person. It’s not pretty.
  • Big box stores don’t really exist here. It can be a shoppers nightmare, forcing them to only choose from handmade crafts and goods.
  • The vast tracts of forest and land often don’t have internet. Most children hate the prospect of No-G.
  • The Black Hills Gold Rush is over. You could spend all day panning, and see more fish, birds and wildlife than flakes of gold.
  • It’s extremely casual. There aren’t many opportunities to spiff up.
  • You could get lost in a cave. Wind Cave and Jewel Cave are some of the longest and oldest in the world. They haven’t even electrified them yet.
  • The silence is deafening. Imagine being left with only your own thoughts.
  • Even fluffy cows here can be aggressive, and you’re not allowed to hand feed them.
  • Many places are only accessible by hiking trail, forcing you to walk.
  • Eye contact can lead to conversations with people and that makes some downright uncomfortable.
  • Giant Black Hills result in winding roads with knee-knocking overlooks.
  • Monuments come out of nowhere.
 
 As you can see visiting South Dakota isn’t for everyone. If you still feel like it might be worth your while, you can proceed.  
Proceed
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The Pigtail Bridges of Iron Mountain Road

2/5/2022

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Pigtail Bridges

Pigtails to Rushmore

Daniel Milks

Owner of My XO Adventures, Traveler and occasional writer. 

The Pigtail Bridges are located at the most northern point of Iron Mountain Road (16A), which terminates just before Mount Rushmore. Completed in 1930, Iron Mountain Road was built with the sole purpose of maximizing the enjoyment of visitors with the ever-popular automobile. C.C. Gideon, or “C.C.” as he was known is the engineer and Peter Norbeck is the visionary. When construction began on Mount Rushmore in 1927, there was a need to connect Custer State Park in the South, with Rushmore to the north. When funds were made available, the idea was to bypass the hills and construct a road that took a more direct approach. This would have been less costly, easier to maintain, and faster to travel.
 
Peter Norbeck objected and with his foresight, he pushed through what became one of the most sought-after roads to travel in the United States. The automobile had a great influence on construction and design. You might think well of course it did, but let’s take a look at why. In 1900 there were 8,000 automobiles on the road, by 1910 that increased to 350,000. As mass production and costs decreased that number jumped to 7.5 million in 1920. The middle class was increasing, and so was their desire for recreation. The automobile would take them there. We were becoming a Nation of automobiles.
 
Norbeck had a knack for long-term visionary planning. His rejection of the initial plans proved correct, and Iron Mountain Road started to become a reality. The idea was to maximize the experience visitors would have, especially traveling from South to North. Measures were taken to ensure the path would highlight the beautiful vistas while doing as little harm to the environment as possible. The road itself was to be an automobile owner’s playground.
 
Iron Mountain Road boasts 17 miles, 314 curves, 14 switchbacks, 3 pigtails, 2 tunnels, 4 presidents, and 2 splits. Wow! It should be mentioned that the tunnels leading to Mount Rushmore were perfectly aligned so as you enter, Mount Rushmore is framed majestically at the far end. It teases visitors the entire way, building excitement for the participants. The Pigtail Bridges compliment the road by solving a problem and providing an exciting corkscrew route down the mountain. The route reached a point that was very steep, and a solution was needed that switchbacks couldn’t easily solve. This led to the idea of the Pigtail Bridges which at the time were rare, but not unheard of. The bridges act like elevators, going up or down depending on the direction. Locally harvested pine would be used in its construction, and great pains have been taken since to preserve its place on the National Register of Historic Places.
 
The Pigtail Bridges provide a whimsical ride down the mountain before reaching Mount Rushmore. Iron Mountain Road in its entirety draws visitors far and wide. Most notably, the Motorcycle Rally Riders zoom through this area in the first weeks of August each year. Car enthusiasts travel to the area to experience a road not made primarily with function, but form.
 
My XO Adventures takes visitors along this route each day, stopping to take in the views and talk about the history behind the construction and the people that made it possible. It’s yet another example of Peter Norbeck's vision of bringing visitors to the Black Hills in a delightful way. #HIFromSD #myxoadventures #blackhillsandbeyond #visitrapidcity #pigtailbridges
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Custer State Park Camping Proposals

1/30/2022

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$10 Million Proposal to Build New Campsites Within Custer State Park

South Dakota is known for its wide-open spaces, independent citizens, and a hands-off approach to government involvement in typically private-sector lines of business. That's why it was quite a surprise to many South Dakotans to hear of a new $10-million, 176 campsite proposal for Custer State Park. Governor Noem rolled out the proposal to increase campsites in the park by 50%, stating that there had not been any expansion in 41 years. 

Government involvement in traditionally private business has long been remembered in South Dakota, going back 100 years to the Republican Progressive Peter Norbeck, South Dakota's 9th Governor. Norbeck is admired by many, and rightly so. He changed the face of the landscape and had numerous accomplishments under his belt that would be the envy of any politician today. A few of his accomplishments, however, are etched into the minds of South Dakotans as much as Mount Rushmore, Needles Highway, or Badlands National Park. 

Those are the South Dakota cement plant, the formation of a state-owned hail insurance program, stockyards, grain elevators, and even a coal mine. Only the first is generally accepted as a financial success. The detractors would say that the cement plant stymied private businesses from entering the field. They'd be right, and as with most state enterprises, it provides an unfair advantage in an otherwise balanced ecosystem. 

Custer State Park is the second-largest in the country. It's comprised of 71,000 acres thriving with herds of Bison, Elk, Pronghorn (Antelope), Bighorn Sheep, and deer. It was an accomplishment to create, restore and preserve. Peter Norbeck had quite a hand in the creation of the park, and hats off to him for it. Since its creation in 1906, Custer State Park has acted as a sanctuary for many animals and can be credited as a major player in bringing back the bison from extinction. Countless visitors have come from all over the nation to visit the area, creating long-lasting memories for  families that include the park in their vacation planning. 

Custer State Park is extraordinarily special. So special is the park that it hasn't added campsites in 41 years! There's no doubt the demand exists, but at what cost? Projections show revenue generated from the proposed campsite would reach $500,000 a year, paying the State of South Dakota back in only 10 years. While this might be true, there comes a ripple effect that goes beyond dollars. 

A 50% increase in campsites opening in year one would have an impact on privately-owned campgrounds, which is a serious concern to those involved. Beyond that, the two-lane Wildlife Loop Road would become increasingly congested. At the peak of the season, Wildlife Loop Road is already overburdened. Standstills occur at the sight of an antelope, or when the Bison freely cross the road. Rangers do their best to untangle these "Buffalo Jams." More people means more traffic, more accidents, more trash, more noise, more pollution, and less nature. 

Migration patterns within the park would change along with the look and feel. While creating more tax dollars widens the eyes of politicians, it isn't a plus in the minds of many locals. South Dakota is a state whose residents want to protect, and for good reason. Governor Noem has done her part to bolster the friendly business environment and appears headed for reelection on November 8, 2022. This doesn't mean that a popular politician is immune to putting forth ideas with good intentions but bad outcomes. Noem, like Norbeck, is faced with a decision that could drastically alter the future of Custer State Park. Its trajectory could end up looking a lot like a Busch Gardens Safari experience if care isn't taken. If you think that's far-fetched take a look at just about every National Park in the country. 

At a time when the National Park Service struggles with solutions to the overcrowding, proposals for Custer State Park seem to want to run headlong into the problem. Many parks are already implementing programs to improve overcrowding by limiting the number of visitors on a given day. Many working in the park will tell you, we're approaching those limits right now. Little has been said at the impending "event horizon" that no doubt South Dakotans will be facing in the not-so-near future.

If 10 million dollars can be made available to Custer State Park, the government may want to consider getting ahead of the issue and using the money to improve the existing experience. Perhaps low-interest loans could be made to the current campsite owners to improve their facilities. More funds are needed for conservation. Currently, 50% of the radio-collared bighorn sheep are dead due to mycoplasma ovipneumoniae, a pneumonia-causing bacteria that nearly wiped out the herd in years past. 

Park Rangers are stretched thin trying to reign in the number of UTV's deviating from established trails. One doesn't have to look far to find the scars across beautiful meadows and fields. Forestry management braces each year for the fire season as well as a lookout for the infamous pine beetle, which devastates swaths of trees due to a more compact canopy and an increase in heatwaves. The streams and creeks of the Black Hills have been reduced to a trickle, resulting in a huge impact on the ecosystem. The riparian habitats are shrinking, a bellwether of what may come. 

There are many reasons to spend money in Custer State Park, but expanded access and government interference in private business are not at the top of the list. Norbeck was a visionary, a conservationist, and a republican. His vision has been realized, now is the time to manage it properly.  




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Daniel Milks

Owner of My XO Adventures, Tour Guide, Traveler and Occasional Writer. 

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