THE SOUTHERN BLACK HILLS
Roaring out of the Earth in Great Plains of South Dakota are the magnificent Black Hills. Over 60 million years ago, through a great uplift the Black Hills rose high above the land, but their creation began deep within mother earth. Their origin began in the Precambrian Period, some 2 billion years ago. At one point it is estimated the Black Hills attained a height of 15,000 feet above sea level. Now, after millions of years of erosion, the highest point, Black Elk Peak reaches 7,244 feet. Although half the original size, the Black Hills are still the highest point from east of the Rockies to the Swiss Alps. Most of the Black Hills are composed of granite, along with quartz, feldspar and mica. Wandering through the area, you'll notice the ground glitters as if being surrounded by jewels in every direction.
The Native Americans of this region called this mountain range Paha Sapa, meaning The Heart of All Things. This was and is considered a sacred area by many, including the Lakota Tribe. The Lakota are made up of seven bands or tribes. These are the Sichangu, Brule, Oglala, Itazipcho, Miniconjou and Sihasapa. The Black Hills is considered a part of their origin story, with the rights of ownership in dispute to this day.
Significant points of interest for visitors to this area are the Cathedral Spires, Mount Rushmore, Custer State Park, Iron Mountain Road, Needles Highway, Sylvan Lake, Crazy Horse Memorial, and further to the East, Badlands National Park. This area is popular with nature enthusiasts, rock climbers, sightseeing, hiking, horseback riding and much more. The mountain range is 110 miles long and 60 miles wide generally being divided between two areas, the Northern and Southern Black Hills. In the Northern Black Hills, you'll find majestic Spearfish Canyon, filled with hiking trails, waterfalls, the nearby Wild West City of Deadwood and one of my personal favorites, Pathways Spiritual Sanctuary. In my experience, the Northern Black Hills plays second fiddle to the Southern Black Hills to tourism, but this shouldn't be the case. The Northern Black Hills are a place of beauty, healing, history and recreation.
The Southern Black Hills are very special for a number of reasons. Generally, when people think of the Black Hills of South Dakota, they conjure up images of Mount Rushmore, with the faces of four great Presidents, Washington, Jefferson, Roosevelt and Lincoln. This is certainly quite an accomplishment and beautiful work of art. There is a great visitors center with a short film, and exhibition hall documenting the idea, construction and impact the monument had on the area. Doane Robinson and Gutzon Borglum set out to create a monument that would inspire the nation, and more importantly bring much needed tourism dollars to the region. They succeeded, and now over 2 million people visit Mount Rushmore each year.
While Mount Rushmore stirs up pride and patriotism in many, the Native Americans of this area feel differently when gazing upon the monument. For them and others, it is viewed as a desecration to a sacred mountain. Mount Rushmore was named after an east coast attorney sent here to survey mining claims. Those he asked had no idea of the name of the mountain, so it was named after him - Charles E. Rushmore. Before this the mountain was known to the Lakota as Tunkasila Sakpe Paha, or Six Grandfathers Mountain. The Six Grandfathers are North, South, East, West, Above and Below. This was a place the Lakota came to pray, carry out ceremonies and considered the center of the universe. Protests, petitions altering the mountain and disputes over the land continue on into the foreseeable future. It's my belief that we understand as much as possible, and from both sides the history of this special place.
If you make a trip to the Black Hills and Mount Rushmore, you can't miss the drive on Iron Mountain Road. Construction of this road was meant to compliment the mountain, cause as little disruption to nature, offer spectacular views and provide a playground for automobiles. Iron Mountain Road winds through forests and tunnels which, when looked through align perfectly with Mount Rushmore, offering great photo opportunities. The road covers 17 miles, has 314 curves, 14 switchbacks, 3 pigtails, 3 tunnels, and two spits. It runs from Mount Rushmore, and terminates near Custer State Park. Enjoy a Southern Black Hills Tour with a great guide to make the most of your visit.
The Native Americans of this region called this mountain range Paha Sapa, meaning The Heart of All Things. This was and is considered a sacred area by many, including the Lakota Tribe. The Lakota are made up of seven bands or tribes. These are the Sichangu, Brule, Oglala, Itazipcho, Miniconjou and Sihasapa. The Black Hills is considered a part of their origin story, with the rights of ownership in dispute to this day.
Significant points of interest for visitors to this area are the Cathedral Spires, Mount Rushmore, Custer State Park, Iron Mountain Road, Needles Highway, Sylvan Lake, Crazy Horse Memorial, and further to the East, Badlands National Park. This area is popular with nature enthusiasts, rock climbers, sightseeing, hiking, horseback riding and much more. The mountain range is 110 miles long and 60 miles wide generally being divided between two areas, the Northern and Southern Black Hills. In the Northern Black Hills, you'll find majestic Spearfish Canyon, filled with hiking trails, waterfalls, the nearby Wild West City of Deadwood and one of my personal favorites, Pathways Spiritual Sanctuary. In my experience, the Northern Black Hills plays second fiddle to the Southern Black Hills to tourism, but this shouldn't be the case. The Northern Black Hills are a place of beauty, healing, history and recreation.
The Southern Black Hills are very special for a number of reasons. Generally, when people think of the Black Hills of South Dakota, they conjure up images of Mount Rushmore, with the faces of four great Presidents, Washington, Jefferson, Roosevelt and Lincoln. This is certainly quite an accomplishment and beautiful work of art. There is a great visitors center with a short film, and exhibition hall documenting the idea, construction and impact the monument had on the area. Doane Robinson and Gutzon Borglum set out to create a monument that would inspire the nation, and more importantly bring much needed tourism dollars to the region. They succeeded, and now over 2 million people visit Mount Rushmore each year.
While Mount Rushmore stirs up pride and patriotism in many, the Native Americans of this area feel differently when gazing upon the monument. For them and others, it is viewed as a desecration to a sacred mountain. Mount Rushmore was named after an east coast attorney sent here to survey mining claims. Those he asked had no idea of the name of the mountain, so it was named after him - Charles E. Rushmore. Before this the mountain was known to the Lakota as Tunkasila Sakpe Paha, or Six Grandfathers Mountain. The Six Grandfathers are North, South, East, West, Above and Below. This was a place the Lakota came to pray, carry out ceremonies and considered the center of the universe. Protests, petitions altering the mountain and disputes over the land continue on into the foreseeable future. It's my belief that we understand as much as possible, and from both sides the history of this special place.
If you make a trip to the Black Hills and Mount Rushmore, you can't miss the drive on Iron Mountain Road. Construction of this road was meant to compliment the mountain, cause as little disruption to nature, offer spectacular views and provide a playground for automobiles. Iron Mountain Road winds through forests and tunnels which, when looked through align perfectly with Mount Rushmore, offering great photo opportunities. The road covers 17 miles, has 314 curves, 14 switchbacks, 3 pigtails, 3 tunnels, and two spits. It runs from Mount Rushmore, and terminates near Custer State Park. Enjoy a Southern Black Hills Tour with a great guide to make the most of your visit.
The Central Black Hills
Although marketed generally as part of the Southern Black Hills, the Central Black Hills has some significant features. Among them are the Cathedral Spires. At the pinnacle of the Needles Highway you'll find these. As the cover photo shows, they take shape as giant granite fins and spires where the idea of Mount Rushmore was born. It's here that Doane Robinson, a state historian got the idea of carving figures into the spires that represent the west. Figures like Wild Bill Hickok, Calamity Jane, Lewis and Clark, Chief Red Cloud and more were considered.
The Cathedral Spires weren't suitable, so Mount Rushmore was carved where it is today. Hill City is located nearby, where you can get good food, a round trip train ride to Keystone as well as some shopping done here. I happen to love the Alpine Inn, but remember it's cash only. Hill City is an old mining town, just like all these places nestled in the valley between the hills. It's known as "The Heart of the Hills" because of its location. I've also read that it's been described as a church on either end and a mile of hell in between. While that's no longer true, it makes me laugh from time to time.
Crazy Horse Memorial is also located here, and well worth the visit. If you do go, keep in mind that all 4 Presidents on Mount Rushmore can fit inside the head of Crazy Horse and his flowing hair. It's huge. Take the bus to the base of the statue as well to get a gander. The central Black Hills fall into the Mystic District of the Black Hills National Forest. From Sylvan Lake, you can hike anywhere in the Black Hills, just be prepared. Hail can reach the size of grapefruit, no joke. I use a weather app called Accuweather, and have found out here in the Hills it seems most accurate.
Hill City and Custer are a pretty good place to base for your visit to the Black Hills. Many people who stay in a hotel in Rapid run the risk of missing both the Northern Black Hills and the Central Black Hills.
The Cathedral Spires weren't suitable, so Mount Rushmore was carved where it is today. Hill City is located nearby, where you can get good food, a round trip train ride to Keystone as well as some shopping done here. I happen to love the Alpine Inn, but remember it's cash only. Hill City is an old mining town, just like all these places nestled in the valley between the hills. It's known as "The Heart of the Hills" because of its location. I've also read that it's been described as a church on either end and a mile of hell in between. While that's no longer true, it makes me laugh from time to time.
Crazy Horse Memorial is also located here, and well worth the visit. If you do go, keep in mind that all 4 Presidents on Mount Rushmore can fit inside the head of Crazy Horse and his flowing hair. It's huge. Take the bus to the base of the statue as well to get a gander. The central Black Hills fall into the Mystic District of the Black Hills National Forest. From Sylvan Lake, you can hike anywhere in the Black Hills, just be prepared. Hail can reach the size of grapefruit, no joke. I use a weather app called Accuweather, and have found out here in the Hills it seems most accurate.
Hill City and Custer are a pretty good place to base for your visit to the Black Hills. Many people who stay in a hotel in Rapid run the risk of missing both the Northern Black Hills and the Central Black Hills.
The Northern Black Hills
This area is becoming my favorite, and I can't put my finger on any one reason. As you make your way north, the Ponderosa Pine begins to give way to the Black Hills Spruce (A White Pine), Quaking Aspen, Paper Birch and other species giving it more variety and texture. When you say the "Northern Black Hills" to someone, they almost always reply with, "You mean Deadwood"? Yes, Deadwood is in the Northern Black Hills and overflows with Wild West stories, famous outlaws, legends and Black Hills Gold.
The Northern Black Hills are much more. The town of Spearfish is one of my favorite places to go. This is where I'll take my guests for a picnic or indoor lunch. It has a very quaint feel, and a unique place called the D.C. Booth National Fish Hatchery and Archives. Whether you're into fishing or not, it doesn't matter. For the enthusiast it's got a lot. For someone who says fish smish, it's still pretty cool. Celebrating 125 years of operation in 2021, this hatchery has helped stock the meany lakes, streams and waterways of the Black Hills. You can buy a bag of fish food, sit on a bench and toss it in the water as hundreds of trout come to the surface for that pellet. It's amusing and entertaining. The grounds are gorgeous and border Spearfish Creek, with a park for a picnic nearby.
The Northern Black Hills contain one of the most precious places in all the hills, Spearfish Canyon. If you leave this off your list, you've made a big mistake. Spearfish Canyon was spared from mining by the owner of the largest gold mine in the country, the Homestake Mine. This was most fortunate, as the area is one of the most beautiful in all of South Dakota. Spearfish Canyon meanders southward along Spearfish Creek. Along the way you'll see sparkling waters, wildlife, waterfalls, trailheads and 1000 foot high limestone cliffs created during the formation of the Black Hills. This is an extraordinary place. Don't miss it.
The Northern Black Hills are much more. The town of Spearfish is one of my favorite places to go. This is where I'll take my guests for a picnic or indoor lunch. It has a very quaint feel, and a unique place called the D.C. Booth National Fish Hatchery and Archives. Whether you're into fishing or not, it doesn't matter. For the enthusiast it's got a lot. For someone who says fish smish, it's still pretty cool. Celebrating 125 years of operation in 2021, this hatchery has helped stock the meany lakes, streams and waterways of the Black Hills. You can buy a bag of fish food, sit on a bench and toss it in the water as hundreds of trout come to the surface for that pellet. It's amusing and entertaining. The grounds are gorgeous and border Spearfish Creek, with a park for a picnic nearby.
The Northern Black Hills contain one of the most precious places in all the hills, Spearfish Canyon. If you leave this off your list, you've made a big mistake. Spearfish Canyon was spared from mining by the owner of the largest gold mine in the country, the Homestake Mine. This was most fortunate, as the area is one of the most beautiful in all of South Dakota. Spearfish Canyon meanders southward along Spearfish Creek. Along the way you'll see sparkling waters, wildlife, waterfalls, trailheads and 1000 foot high limestone cliffs created during the formation of the Black Hills. This is an extraordinary place. Don't miss it.
Bear Butte
The sacred Beat Butte, or Mato Paha in Lakotan. This really isn't a butte at all, but a laccolith. This is an area where magma from below the surface pushes upward deforming the crust and layers above, but never reaching the surface, It's like a pimple that won't pop. After a time, wind and rain erode the remnants, leaving the shape it is today. Devils Tower is another good example. Bear Butte is a sacred place to the Lakota and Cheyenne. It's not far from Deadwood and about a 40 minute drive from Rapid City.
The shape of the mountain resembles that of a sleeping bear. My recommendation when visiting here is to go with great respect. This is a holy mountain. The Park service has created trails to take you up and around Bear Butte. When walking the trails, be aware of how you walk, the sounds you make and the clutter of your mind. No earbuds are necessary and you don't even need a phone. Along the way you'll see colored cloths tied to tree limbs. These represent the prayers, gratitude, hopes and dreams of the people who put them there. No photography is allowed.
There are quite a few animals out here as well. Take note at the ones you see. Spend time observing them. Quite a few birds like the Golden Eagle, the Red Tailed Hawk, the Magpie and the Pheasant reside here. In addition there are Bison, Prairie Dogs, chipmunks and snakes. I've seen rattle snakes as well as the harmless Eastern yellow bellied racer. Not to worry, you'll be fine. Walk slow, don't speak and center your mind. Take notes. Everything you see and hear is a message made just for you. Enjoy Bear Butte and give your own personal thanks in the form of a prayer for the things of which you are grateful.
The shape of the mountain resembles that of a sleeping bear. My recommendation when visiting here is to go with great respect. This is a holy mountain. The Park service has created trails to take you up and around Bear Butte. When walking the trails, be aware of how you walk, the sounds you make and the clutter of your mind. No earbuds are necessary and you don't even need a phone. Along the way you'll see colored cloths tied to tree limbs. These represent the prayers, gratitude, hopes and dreams of the people who put them there. No photography is allowed.
There are quite a few animals out here as well. Take note at the ones you see. Spend time observing them. Quite a few birds like the Golden Eagle, the Red Tailed Hawk, the Magpie and the Pheasant reside here. In addition there are Bison, Prairie Dogs, chipmunks and snakes. I've seen rattle snakes as well as the harmless Eastern yellow bellied racer. Not to worry, you'll be fine. Walk slow, don't speak and center your mind. Take notes. Everything you see and hear is a message made just for you. Enjoy Bear Butte and give your own personal thanks in the form of a prayer for the things of which you are grateful.
